Oteyza – FW 20/21

by Abdon FLORES

The Spanish brand Oteyza announces on its website that they are rather a tailor shop than a mere pret-à-porter business. And that’s quite true. Tailoring in Spain has an ancient tradition that we can track back as far as the Golden age of the kingdom of Spain. Four centuries of know-how have a clear impact on such projects as the one lead in Madrid by Caterina Pañeda and Paul Garcia.

 

 

The Oteyza presentation for the Fall-Winter 20/21 took place in the sumptuous Spanish embassy, an unbeatable location for this concept of clothing. In a fashion scene dominated nowadays by street/urban fashion, it is so refreshing to see a radically opposite perspective of what fashion should be like. The silhouettes depicted by this duo of creators recall those gloomy characters portrayed by Velazquez, Zurbaran, Rembrandt or even Franz Hals, these two last ones, inhabitants of a former Spanish colony.

 

 

Capes, cordovan hats, cigarette pants, dramatic asymmetries shone in a gilded décor, as if the long ago gone caballeros came to life for the lapse of a single XXI century night. The collection was rightfully called “Lumières”, a lesson of dexterity in cuts, purity of lines and diversity of textures and colors. The merinos wool (made in Spain) was just another exquisite detail adding up to a brilliant collection.