Jean Paul Gaultier – Grand finale
by Abdon FLORES
Fifty years of career seem the right time to say good bye, at least if you are Jean Paul Gaultier and consider you have given all you could in a so imaginative and demanding field as haute couture. That means about one hundred collections, i.e. around 3000 different looks, plus the ready-to-wear (man and woman) collections and the special orders (movies, cabarets shows, etc.) And even if fashion recycles, designers that have lasted were always those whose creativity –and commercial sense– was vivid. Sadly, the so called enfant terrible de la mode has put an end to a prolific and shining path in a time where haute couture seems to be really alive.
The news went viral on Monday 20th when the 67 years old French designer announced via Instagram that this couture show would be his last one. A similar statement had happened back in 2014 when a concerned but smiling Jean Paul Gaultier said that he had decided to stop the ready-to-wear in order to focus on haute couture, apparently, a more profitable line. Well, now reality has imposed its narrative and the very end is here for a brand that during half a century glowed in fashion. The company owned by the Spanish group Puig, will continue to exist in latency, as did Dior, Chanel or Givenchy when their founders disappeared.
A fifty years anniversary show must be unforgettable, and it was the case on a crowded Thêatre de Châtelet (2,500 people capacity). Celebrities, artists and models walked on the podium showing most of the iconic pieces M. Gaultier created along his prolific couturier life. Many of his hits were there worn by stars like Rosy de Palma, Beatrice Dalle, Dita von Teese or Amanda Lear. “I think fashion has to change,” he wrote in a letter to every guest at the show. “There are too many clothes, and too many clothes that are useless. Do not throw them away, recycle them!” And it was what he did on his last show, up-cycling clothes, make them to live again.
With M. Gaultier retirement a page in the book of fashion recedes. He was formed in the ateliers of Pierre Cardin and Jean Patou; and when it was the time for him to be the master, Nicolas Ghesquière and Martin Margiela were his employees. This last show was actually a major celebration and a kind of homage that the fashion world paid to him: in the front row you could see Dries van Noten, Christian Louboutin, Isabel Marant, Victor and Rolf, Christian Lacroix and Anna Wintour clapping at such iconic pieces as the blue-and-white-striped marinière, the corset, the tuxedo trousers and the skirt made out of silk ties.
This final runway collection also featured 700,000 crystals provided by longstanding collaborator Swarovski. Sew-on stones, pendants, beads, crystal transfers and crystal pearls appeared on 18 key looks and 25 accessories worn by models and celebrities including Joan Smalls, Erin O’Connor, Yasmin Le Bon, Jade Parfitt, Cristina Cordula and Iris Mittenaere. The show also included a preview of the designer’s iconic new AW20 jewelry collection, Atelier Swarovski x Jean Paul Gaultier. Inspired by a 90s street punk influences, models wore layered pieces including earrings, hoops, necklaces and rings, which featured Swarovski crystal cuts designed to emulate vintage mirrors.
Boy George opened the show with a cover of Amy Winehouse’s Back to Black and closed it with Church of the poison mind, a rare omen to say good bye to a rather brilliant and creative spirit.
Photos: © Jason Lloyd-Evans.
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