Julien Fournié FW 19/20 Couture
by Abdon FLORES
French designer Julien Fournié has been a protagonist in the haute couture scene this decade. On this Fall/Winter season he’s celebrating his 10th anniversary, and for such an occasion he decided to seek inspiration in a rather weird source: witchcraft. His collection “First spell” is devoted to women who derogate, transform and transcend the social codes which were designed to enclose their gender.
“I have always found witches more stimulating than repulsive,” says Julien Fournié. “Haute couture and magic do share a taste for the accumulated experience and the knacks of the trade. Official education often underrates and depreciates this kind of knowledge. I am convinced that combining the empirical and the innovative is the best way to save nature, humanity, and change the world so that the free exultation of minds and bodies can never be associated again with devilish Sabbaths.”
Fournié masters every trick in the art of the cut, he modernizes into evil beauties the mythical silhouettes of witches, poisoners, Gothic novels dames and film noir stars alike. High collar, embroidered shirtfronts on pleated chiffon blouses, are paired with long Edwardian skirts. In jackets, coats and trompe-l’oeil coat dresses, the cut borrows from military garments the padded shoulders and apparent buttoning on the top. From the waistline downwards, fabric blooms into folded basques on jackets, and blossoms, in hemlines at ankle level, to allow marching with the right magnitude.
Ravens and other birds of misfortune are summoned on headpieces, bonnet and “capeline”, via embroidered feathers, also woven in a remarkable version of the House’s iconic bag. The signature t-strap mules are decorated for the season with a contrasting tiara pattern on their tip. A coherent collection that fascinates as did the old crones of the past.
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