Luis Buchinho FW 19/20

by Antonio IRDA

Uniforms have always inspired fashion designers; in fact, uniforms are an ancient seed for what we call fashion nowadays. Uniforms, in a certain way, are fashionable. For this FW 19/20 Portuguese designer Luis Buchinho researched on uniforms used by female pioneers of aviation in the 40’s. For sure Amy Johnson, the famous British solo pilot who died over the Thames, was a reference in this collection.

Military clothes bring with them a defined narrative, a precise code: jumpsuits, bomber jackets, headgear, aviator overcoats, gloves… Add to these garments the luxurious leather mixed with fake fur, flannel, knits, wool boucles and felt and you have a full squadron of powerful female flying aces. The design was geometric, stiff, with matte and shine zones rendering graphic designs.

 

 

 

 

Sir David Adjaye‘s diverse designs and innovative use of materials and light were also a strong drive to design the whole collection, mostly the modelling and the patterns. By watching M. Buchinho young aviators, you can sense the significance of this kind of clothes: useful, wearable, lasting, dramatic and versatile. If not to battle, they can perfectly deal with any other risky occasion.