Delamotte 2008 – Salon 2007
by Abdon FLORES
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize and Oger are villages where Chardonnay lights up the landscape. This delicate variety, confronted in the Côte des Blancs with a striking terroir, finds here the perfect combination to preserve its freshness intact over time. In 1760, Champagne Delamotte was one of only five Champagne houses in the region, contiguous to the mythical House of Champagne Salon with which it shares the same viticultural, winemaking and management team.
In 2008 the winter was mild, and the cold wet spring pushed the boundaries; the start to June was freezing just as the flowering was beginning, which determines the future of the year’s wines. Under these conditions the chardonnay grapes prospered, gaining in strength to harvesting mid-September. The 2008 Delamotte Blanc de blancs has all the elegance and depth of a wine for laying down, and reveals the potential for many, many long years of gaining strength.
Salon is a unique Champagne. All the emphasis in the production of this exceptional wine is on the singular. It was originally the product of one single man, Aimé Salon; from one single region, the Côte de Blancs; from one single cru, le Mesnil-sur-Oger; from one single grape variety, Chardonnay; and from one single vintage, with no blending whatsoever. Created in 1911 the first known vintage was 1905. This Champagne is produced from a one-hectare parcel owned by Salon: “Salon’s garden”, and from 19 other smaller parcels in Mesnil-sur-Oger, chosen by Aimé Salon at the beginning of the century. The wines are cellared in the bottle for an average of 10 years, gaining in complexity and finesse.
Salon 2007 is stunning; after a mild winter, April was magnificent, and flowering was perfect. June and July brought long days of bright sunshine while August was rather chilly. The result: pale shades, cool blonde tones glistening with lemon and green. The bubbles are fine and quick. In the glass, aromas form a moving backdrop, fresh and bright: lemon, lime, yuzu, then green apple, a hint of smoked tea and fresh herbs on wet stone. This notable millesime is sold at 390 €.
